Amsterdam

Last time I was in Amsterdam in 2011, I felt like I hardly had enough time to explore much of the city. When the time came for me to leave only after a few short days, I was already dying to come back. Thankfully, my little sis from my sorority just moved to Amsterdam to work as an au pair, which made for the perfect excuse to visit again!

The Netherlands will always feel special to me because my heritage is mostly Dutch. (Yes, in case you were wondering where a strange last name like "Likkel" comes from, I blame Holland entirely.) I loved being able to get in touch with my Dutch roots while exploring all of what Amsterdam has to offer. 

Part of what makes me fall head over heels in love with Amsterdam is how drastically different it is from Madrid. Charming brick buildings with intricate façades line the quaint canals, while curving cobblestone streets lead you to picturesque waterways and cozy cafés. The city's unusual architecture and colors of vibrant simplicity left me awestruck. Not to mention, Dutch people are incredibly friendly. If I ever looked lost, strangers would stop to ask me if I would like directions or if needed help getting anywhere. 

We had originally planned a day trip to either Groningen or Utrecht, but our plans fell by the wayside when I accidentally ate a bagel with gluten on Friday morning and was violently ill for the entire weekend. Celiac problems, much?  (In my defense, I ordered a gluten free bagel... but the restaurant accidentally served me a regular one. So of course I was raving, "Wow this tastes so good, I can't even tell that it's gluten free!" Uh huh. I was sick for five days. Celiac disease is a real and miserable thing, my friends.)

"Gluten poisoning" aside, I still had a marvelous time discovering the city with new eyes. Yes, I felt miserable, but I didn't let that get in the way of enjoying my time in Amsterdam. One of the many benefits of traveling is learning how to overcome adversity, am I right?

Holland feels like a cozy home away from home, because so many things reminded me of my family and my childhood. One day I'd love to spend an extended period of time in The Netherlands and get to know the rest of the country, including all of the places like Hardenberg, Lutten and Dalfsen where my family originally comes from. Amsterdam is a city where I could actually see myself living, so who knows, maybe one day that'll be going on my bucket list too. Until then, I'll be dreaming of someday returning to Holland and immersing myself in my Dutch roots once again.

Defining Home: "Livable" vs "Visitable"

One of the things that I love the most about Madrid is how it reminds me of Seattle. Now before you think I’m certifiably insane, let me clarify that Madrid is the polar opposite of Seattle in many ways. This I can attest to every single day – both the good and the bad. What stands out to me the most is how both Seattle and Madrid are the perfect "livable" cities for me.

Both cities lack the typical sights and attractions that appeal to tourists and newcomers alike. They’re underrated. Sure, there are many notable sights worth seeing, like Pike Place Market and the Museo del Prado, but in no way do they compare to places like Rome or New York City. Truth be told, I would feel particularly overwhelmed – and most likely miserable – if I were to live in one of the aforementioned cities. They're beautiful places that I love visiting, but could I actually make a life there for the longterm? No way.

What Madrid and Seattle may lack in attractions that give certain places a “top-of-the-bucket-list” appeal, they make up for in community and character. I don’t feel insignificant in Seattle or Madrid. Both cities have welcoming vibes that invite you to create a home there. While they are technically big cities, neither actually feel that big. Madrid and Seattle have agreeable personalities, and I’ve been able to settle down in both places.

Although technically I am living in one of the largest cities in Europe, Madrid often feels like a small town to me.

When people come to visit me in Madrid, I want to warn them that it’s not like Paris, London or Barcelona, where you feel like you couldn’t fit in all of the sights even if you were there for two weeks. Much like Seattle, the main tourist attractions in Madrid can be seen in a day and a half, two days maximum. The real magic of Madrid lies in the unconventional tourist experiences, like people watching in Parque del Buen Retiro. Drinking tinto de verano in a sunny plaza. Taking several coffee breaks throughout the day to refuel in charming cafés. Wandering through quaint neighborhoods free of tourists, stopping to admire the architecture and observe the bustling streets. Stopping by the local market for a glass of wine and a tapa or two, even if it’s not lunchtime. This is the lifestyle of Spain, and it should be celebrated accordingly.

Naturally, drinking tinto de verano in the middle of the day is part of the ideal Madrid experience.

To the traveler who is constantly on the go, all of this could seem like a royal waste of time. I’ve encountered many travelers who are disappointed by Madrid because they compare it to Barcelona. What they don’t realize is that the drastically different energies of both places simply cannot be compared. If you were to visit Seattle right after visiting NYC with the same expectations for both cities, you would probably feel disappointed too.

Now, it would be unfair to generalize and proclaim that everyone is just like me. While living in New York City would seem like a nightmare to me, some of my very best friends live there and thrive off its energy. While I am in sync with Madrid, I have several good friends here who are eager to move to smaller towns in Spain next year. Four years ago I clashed with Cádiz and was miserable for five months, but here in Madrid I’ve lived in harmony for almost six months. Everybody vibes with different cities. Your compatibility with a place can profoundly affect your experience of living there.

When I first arrived in Madrid I came across this quote, and it’s taken me until now to fully internalize its relevance. Yet, now I feel as if it has accurately summed up my life in Madrid thus far:

“Porque Madrid, en realidad, no es nada especial. No tiene un gran río. Ni apenas rascacielos. Ni canales, ni lagos. Ni gloriosas ruinas. Ni mar. A Madrid le faltan muchas cosas. Pero tiene la gente por las calles. El rincón inesperado. La variedad. El contraste. La animación constante. Y sus costumbres. Vale la pena levantarse temprano – solo por una vez – para vivir un día la vida de Madrid.”

"Because Madrid, in reality, is nothing special. It doesn't have a great river. Nor does it have many skyscrapers. Or canals or lakes. Or glorious ruins. Or the sea. Madrid lacks a lot of things. But it has people in the streets. The unexpected street corners. The variety. The contrast. Constant liveliness. And it has its customs. It's worth getting up early - just once - to live the life of Madrid for one day."

Madrid may lack certain things, but it sure is beautiful.

What defines home for you? Are there certain cities that you clash with, or are extremely compatible with? How do you differentiate places that you like visiting versus places that you can see yourself living in?

Interview with Jessica: Teaching English in Spain through the BEDA Program

If you have the urge to pack your bags, get paid a decent salary and have the time of your life living in Spain, there are plenty of different ways to become an English teacher Spain. That said, researching all of the options out there can feel a bit overwhelming, which is why a few of us bloggers here in Madrid have collaborated to talk about various opportunities to teach English in Spain and share our personal experiences with these programs.

Make sure to check out Curiosity Travels to read about my experience with the Auxiliares de Conversación program, Route Words to learn about Candice and the CIEE program, and The Gilded Nomad to discover more about Kelsey's TEFL experience.

Today I'm thrilled to introduce one of my favorite expat bloggers, Jessica from Curiosity Travels. After teaching in Korea for a couple of years, Jessica made the move to Madrid and now teaches English through the BEDA program. I'm always quite envious of her extensive travels and beautiful photos, so be sure to check out her blog which is sure to inspire you to pack your bags and travel the world!

Jessica, what made you decide to teach in Spain?
After college, I decided to teach in South Korea. The benefits of teaching there are great, and the money and vacation time kept me there for two years. After that, I took my savings and went to travel for about 5 months. Although I overall enjoyed the experience in Korea, and of course all my travels around Asia, I didn't always connect with Korean culture and lifestyle. I still wanted to teach abroad, so I decided to pick a location based on the lifestyle rather than the salary and benefits. I knew some Spanish already, so Spain just seemed to be a perfect fit!

From cold Korea to sunny Spain!

What is your program, and why did you choose it? 

I am in the BEDA program which places successful applicants in Catholic schools around Spain, but mostly in Madrid. I knew that I wanted to be in Madrid, so this seemed like a good choice. I also don't like programs which can randomly place you anywhere, so I was hesitant to do the ministry program. I had also heard about how unorganized the ministry program is, so that was another deterrent. BEDA also offers a lot of support in terms of visas, setting up banks accounts and school placements so I went with it! 

How did you apply, and how difficult was the process? 

Overall, it's pretty simple. You must be a native English speaker from an English speaking country, have a clean criminal record and either a college degree or be in the process of getting one. I applied in November for the upcoming fall term. Sending over the documents was very straight forward and I was soon given a Skype interview time. I had that in January and it was very basic, more like a Q&A session for the program rather than an interview. By April, I had heard that I had been accepted and was sent my school placement. To accept, I had to send over €175 to hold my placement and be enrolled in the university classes which are also part of the program. 

How much do you get paid and is it enough to live off of? 

In the BEDA program you are able to choose how many hours you teach, and your salary is based off of that. I teach 18 hours (which comes out to about 21 classes) and receive €823 a month after taxes and medical. It is enough to live a basic lifestyle with, but doesn't allow for travel. I teach private classes on the side to supplement the rest of my income. 

Let private classes pay for your churro addiction

How many hours in total are you working?

I am at work (or teaching private classes) for a total of about 28 hours a week. This includes 21 classes at my school and 5 private classes. I don't have to lesson plan at my school, and I probably spend less than an hour or two in total lesson planning for my private classes. Most of my private classes are with small children, so during my breaks I just print off worksheets and crafts. During the classes I also use a lot of online games and flashcards. With my schedule, I am kept pretty busy three days a week. The other day is a half day and I have every Friday off unless I am scheduled to attend one of the three hour BEDA classes. It's great compared to most jobs in the U.S.A., that's for sure! With the BEDA program, if you want to have Fridays off, you should probably choose less than 20 hours. Although it is not guaranteed, your school can bunch your classes together to make that possible. If you want more money without having to find private classes, I'd recommend that you choose to work 20+ hours. 

What has been your experience teaching private classes on the side? 

My private classes were very easy to find. A lot of the parents at my school wanted them, so right after school at 4:45 I either walk the students home or get driven to their houses which are all a short distance away. This is nice because I don't waste time commuting to classes. I also teach one 4-year-old twice a week, during lunch. I walk about 15 minutes to his house, stay with him for an hour and then walk back all in time to make it to my next class. These classes keep me busy, and sometimes I really don't want to do them, but they pay the bills and allow me to save a little each month! 

 

Some of the students are just so cute!

How did your program prepare you? 

The BEDA program was pretty good with answering all questions we had about the job before arrival. The coordinators are very responsive and helpful. They gave good advice and instructions for getting the visa and upon arrival we had an orientation to complete our visa paperwork. A bank account was also set up for us and taken care of. In terms of meeting other people in the program or informing us about life in Spain, I think the program could have done better. The orientation was very centered around formalities, information about the Catholic school system and paperwork and didn't allow for socializing or preparing for our time in Spain. They offered a little assistance for finding an apartment, but we were mostly on our own. 

What are the pros and cons of your program?
The definite pro of this program is the support they offer in terms of visa and banking paperwork. My residency card happened to have a misprint, and although it's now a huge headache, they are helping me though every complicated step. It is also a smaller program, so any question or problem I have I know one of the coordinators will respond quickly. There are no problems in terms of late payments, and if you happen to have a problem with your school they are happy to fix the situation or help you switch. For me, the cons are both the pay and the extra classes. I wish this program paid as much as the ministry so I didn't have to fit in private classes. I also do some social media work and spend a lot of time on my blog, so working 28 hours a week keeps me very busy. I also personally don't enjoy all the required classes even though they are only once or twice a month. Some of them have not been helpful to me at all. On the other hand, some of the classes are for Spanish, and those are nice to have. This has been helpful for me since I don't pay for any Spanish lessons at the moment and I can use the extra study time. 

Did your program live up to its expectations? 

Yes, this program did live up to my expectations. I am so thankful for the assistance and organization, but at the same I wish it paid the same as the ministry program. With the BEDA program you are sacrificing a bit more free time and money to be able to be in a program that tries its best to take care of you. 

Teaching English to primary students involves a lot of coloring!

Who would you recommend this program to? 

I would recommend this program to people who aren't concerned about being able to save money while in Madrid. If you just want to break even, then this program will be fine. I would also recommend this program to people who aren't comfortable having to navigate all the paperwork on their own. Also, if you are new to teaching this would be a good program for you. The first few university classes were about teaching methods and activities to use in the classroom. Also, if you are comfortable in smaller, more reliable programs, this might be best for you. 

What level of Spanish do you need to have to participate in this program? 

It is not a requirement to speak much Spanish at all to participate in this program, although it helps in general. Some of the orientation was held in Spanish and some of the Spanish teachers in the Catholic schools don't have the strongest level of English. There are many people who have a very basic level of Spanish and still do just fine. Overall, I would recommend learning as much as you can before arrival just for your own personal benefit. 

What's your favorite part about living in Spain? 

My favorite part of living in Spain is getting to know Spanish culture and lifestyle. It is such an enjoyable and fun country to live in! I also really enjoy being in such a convenient spot for travel. There are so many places to explore not only in Spain, but Europe itself! 

If you want to apply to the BEDA program, you can do so here: http://www.ecmadrid.org/en/language-assistant

  When Jessica isn't teaching or taking advantage of cheap RyanAir flights, you will probably find her in the Asian supermarkets scouring the aisles for the best ingredients for pad thai or Korean kimbap. She also tweets and Instagrams for Madrid Food Tour where she shares food porn with the rest of the world. You can follow her journey from Asia to Europe, and everywhere in between, all on her blog CuriosityTravels.org.

What are your thoughts on teaching abroad? 

Do you have any experiences you'd like to share?