Charmed by Valencia

You've done it again, Spain.

Valencia had been on my Spain Bucket List for over a year, so once I finally booked my weekend getaway to the east coast of Spain, I had developed some pretty high expectations. 

So in this delightfully diverse country with hidden gems in every corner, do you think I was disappointed?

Of course not.

First, let's talk about the cuisine. The region of Valencia is home to Spain's most famous dish, paella. This tasty concoction of rice, vegetables, meat, seafood and saffron can be absolutely heavenly when done right. Unfortunately, bad paella can be found near tourist traps far and wide throughout Spain. (Rule of thumb: if there's a picture of paella in the restaurant's window, don't eat there.) 

However, if you do your research, Valencia can be a paella lover's dream. We indulged on the vegetable paella at La Pepica, an old haunt of Hemingway's. At this traditional, airy restaurant by the sea, I could almost picture good ol' Ernest himself declaring what a fine place it was. We enjoyed our exquisite pan of paella alongside some mussels and local white wine, rendering it the perfect meal.

And what better way to wash down some savory paella than with a pitcher of Agua de Valencia? A blend of freshly squeezed orange juice, Cava (Spain's version of champagne) vodka and gin, this upgraded mimosa just might be my new favorite cocktail.

Not to mention, there's also the Mercat Central de Valencia, which unquestionably makes my list of all-time favorite food markets in Europe.

I timed my trip to coincide with the first weekend of Valencia's Las Fallas festival, which is held every year from March 15th - 19th. Appropriately named "the fires", Las Fallas is a colorful fiesta filled with larger than life paper mâché statues that mock political and cultural issues, gunpowder shows in the middle of the day, and a lifetime's worth of pyrotechnics. On the last night of the festival, the city is set ablaze as the satirical paper mâché figures called ninots (meaning "puppets" or "dolls") are burnt to the ground. 

Despite only being in Valencia for a full day and a half, I found the city to be completely enchanting. I'm already aching to go back and spend more time exploring the city. (And drink more Agua de Valencia, obviously.) There are still so many things that I have yet to discover, like the intriguing City of Arts and Sciences and the gorgeous, vast beaches. Moreover, I'd love to witness the Nit del Foc, the last night of Las Fallas festival where all of the ninots are set on fire.

With so many excuses to spend more time in Valencia, I sincerely hope I get the chance to go back soon and get to know this picturesque city better.

My Valencia Picks:

Where to Get Your Paella Fix: La Pepica

Must-Try Dishes: Paella, buñuelos de calabaza (pumpkin fritters), horchata, Agua de Valencia

Can't Miss Sights: Mercat Central de Valencia, City of Arts and Sciences, Catedral de Valencia

When to Go: March 15th - 19th for Las Fallas festival

Best Agua de Valencia: Café de las Horas

A Taste of Valencia's Mercat Central

Amidst the busting bars and cafés of Valencia's old town lies the Mercat Central de Valencia, one of Europe's oldest running markets. Designed in 1914 and opened in 1928, this impressive Modernist structure covers more than 8,000 square meters and is home to about 400 vendors. Here you can find a colorful labyrinth of stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, seafood, spices, olives, nuts and other treats to hungry locals.

Though Valencia's Central Market is one of the city's main tourist attractions, the quality of the market's goods has not been sacrificed. The Mercat Central de Valencia is not swarming with tourists compared to Barcelona's La Boqueria or Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel, so you can still spot locals picking out the freshest produce or asking their favorite butcher for the finest cuts of the day.

Bathed in natural light, the market's eye-catching structure is embellished with colorful stained glass windows, ceramics and mosaics. The striking interior almost distracts you from the parade of edible eye-candy inside the market. Kaleidoscopes of fruit adorn every aisle, while succulent vegetables and pungent cheeses invite you to feast upon the market's every delight.

The Mercat Central abounds with some of Spain's finest delicacies, such as jamón ibérico, chorizo, salchichón, olive oil, and regional vegetable varieties. Valencia is also home to the country's best paella (it's where the famous dish originated!), so it's no surprise that this market is one of the freshest spots to pick up some paella fixings.

One of the most revered local delicacies is horchata, a typical beverage that's especially popular in the warmer summer months. Not to be confused with Latin American horchata that is made from rice, Valencian orxata is a sweet, milky drink made from water, sugar and tiger nuts. 

Tiger nuts, or chufa, are nutrient-packed tubers that were originally brought to Valencia when the Arabs occupied Spain. Because horchata is made of tiger nuts, it's naturally nut, dairy and gluten free - perfect for the hungry traveller with food allergies!

Roasted pumpkin - another typical Valencian delight

Valencia's Mercat Central is mecca of fresh food, local delicacies and sublime architecture. Whether you visit to pick up a handful of local treats, shop for your weekly groceries, admire the stunning interior or simply take in the lively ambiance, the Mercat Central de Valencia is sure to thrill your senses.

Mercat Central de Valencia

Plaza Ciudad de Brujas, Valencia 46001

Open Monday - Saturday | 7:00 am - 3:00 pm 

What are some of your favorite markets in Europe?

Modernism 101 with Discover Walks Barcelona

Before my first trip to Barcelona five years ago, I had briefly educated myself on modernist architecture and the legend of Gaudí through various guidebooks and countless viewings of Vicky Cristina Barcelona. However, about six months afterwards, what little information I had previously acquired quite effortlessly slipped my mind. For good.

Upon my return to Barcelona, I was anxious to refresh my memory and delve deeper into Gaudí's masterpieces. But this time, I couldn't just rely on a guidebook. I needed a comprehensive overview from a source that would stick with me. 

So when Discover Walks reached out to me, I knew it was fate. More than your average tour company, Discover Walks guides you around the city through the eyes of a passionate local. As my friend Morgan and I began our Gaudí Extravaganza - Best of Barcelona Tour with our native guide Biel, we immediately found his enthusiasm for his hometown to be contagious.

Back in the late 19th century, Barcelona's central living quarters became too crowded - so the city began expanding into the Eixample (which translates to "extension"). Many affluent families took advantage of this extra space to build large, lavish houses along the Passeig de Gràcia, which connected Barcelona's city center to other neighboring villages such as Vila de Gràcia.

Today the Passeig de Gràcia is characterized by upscale shops, prosperous businesses, and some of the city's best architectural gems. Amongst the many eye-catching examples of modernist architecture lies the Block of Discord, one of the most celebrated examples of Catalan modernism. 

We started our Discover Walks tour here, learning how the wealthy "Catalan Gatsby's" of the early 20th century competed to have the most impressive homes. On this particular block in the Eixample, several prominent Catalan families each hired different architects to design their houses. These distinguished modernist architects battled it out for the Passeig de Gràcia's most extravagant building, creating a row of notably clashing homes. 

Lluís Domènech i Montaner's Casa Lleó-Morera

Josep Puig i Cadafalch's Casa Amatller

Antoni Gaudí's Casa Batlló

Our guide Biel explained the intricate symbolism behind the Block of Discord's architectural elements, from the wavy disposition of the iron to the organic shapes imitating nature. We learned the inside secrets of Casa Batlló's facade, including which metaphor Gaudí was supposedly playing on when designing the house. (Hint: it has to do with the story of Barcelona's patron saint!)

We then moved on from the Block of Discord, exploring more of the Eixample's modernist masterpieces. As we worked our way past Gaudí's Casa Milà and up the Rambla de Catalunya, we learned fascinating tidbits about the origins of modernism, the ins and outs of Catalan culture, and various fun facts about Barcelona. I found myself wishing that I had taken this tour five years ago, for I was beginning to see the city in a brand new light. How had I missed out on this much history my first time around?!

We finished the tour in front of Gaudí's enigmatic and unfinished cathedral, Sagrada Familia. By this time, our guide's contagious passion and enthusiasm had unmistakably spread to us. We ended our tour buzzing about Barcelona and wishing we had time to learn more.

Refreshing, entertaining and informative, our Discover Walks tour was the perfect way to learn all about Catalan modernism. I discovered more about the city than I could have ever learned from a guidebook, for our vivacious guide made Barcelona's history come to life. Thanks to this comprehensive tour, I now have a deeper appreciation for the city's intriguing architecture and history.

Discover Walks graciously invited me on their Gaudí Extravaganza Tour, but as always, all opinions expressed are my own. You can find out more about Discover Walks and their unique walking tours around Europe here.