A Guide to Savoring Split, Croatia

While Croatia abounds with dreamy escapes and enthralling adventures, there's nothing quite like the dramatic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast. Among coastal Croatia's many gems, the effervescent hub of Split is one of the go-to destinations for ancient history, fresh cuisine, pulsing nightlife and unabashed sun-worshipping.

Breezy, vibrant and serene, Split effortlessly embodies the spirit of the Mediterranean. In between chasing waterfalls and island hopping, a stop in Split is an absolute must for any Croatian itinerary.

However, seeing as Croatia is quickly becoming one of Europe's most popular destinations, Split harbors its fair share of tourist traps. In order to avoid the overpriced, overrated and downright tacky, here are my tried-and-true recommendations for authentically enjoying Split.

EXPLORE

Old Town

Though Split is acclaimed for its sparkling waterfront and inviting seas, much of its charm is anchored to the historic old town. Half of the old town resides in the ruins of Diocletian's Palace, a 4th century Roman fortress that once dominated the city. Inside the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets, quaint outdoor cafés hug the stone walls, the pungent aroma of olive oil wafts through the air, and cascades of bougainvillea drape over weathered shutters. Every alley is a feast for the senses.

Diocletian's Palace

While Diocletian's imposing fortress has transformed into the beating heart of Split's old town, the palace's original design can still be found in the basement. Accessing its lower floors from Split's seaside promenade, the Riva, allows visitors to see the floor plan and envision what the palace could have been like during Diocletian's glory days. Though the remains of the fortress are scarce compared to what it once was, Diocletian's Palace still boasts some of Europe's most impressive Roman ruins.

The Riva

Sauntering down Split's sleek promenade is a rite of passage upon arrival. With sublime seaside views and a plethora of waterfront bars and cafés, the Riva is an ideal place to grab a cocktail and people watch. While its restaurants are of seemingly dubious quality, a quick coffee or fresh-pressed juice makes for the perfect pit stop during your stroll.

Cathedral of St. Domnius

This well-preserved Roman edifice was originally built as a mausoleum for Diocletian, who was notorious for persecuting Christians. After his death, the Christians got even by destroying his sarcophagus and turning his tomb into a cathedral. The church's bell tower flaunts resplendent views of the city, while the interior's crypt and treasury equally captivate visitors. Your ticket also covers entry to Diocletian's Temple of Jupiter, which was converted into a baptistry.

INDULGE

Bokeria's savory carpaccio

Bokeria 

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Named after Barcelona's most iconic market, Bokeria is a mecca of modern Mediterranean cuisine. This bustling restaurant thrives in a former hardware store, where contemporary flavors are reflected in the fittingly sleek and industrial decor.

After our first lunch here, the heavenly flavors and impressive wine list convinced us to come back for a second meal. I still dream about the carpaccio with pickled onions, candied walnuts and honey mustard, along with the pear, asparagus and gorgonzola risotto. (Reservations recommended.)

Paradigma

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My rooftop feast at Paradigma was the crown jewel of gastronomic experiences in coastal Croatia. Perched atop an elegant terrace with inviting views of the sea and old town, Paradigma serves a blend of traditional Mediterranean gastronomy with unique contemporary twists. Indulgence is the name of the game here, as exemplified by our decadent feast.

We started our meal with champagne and fresh oysters, which were served in a variety of flavors including raspberry tapioca, cucumber foam, fresh watermelon, burrata, and jamón ibérico. The unconventionally sublime flavors effortlessly seduced my tastebuds. Next, we savored a Jerusalem artichoke and rose soup, followed by baba ghanoush risotto with green olives, goat cheese and eggplant espuma. (Reservations recommended.)

Fresh, flavored oysters from Paradigma | Pear & gorzanzola risotto from Bokeria 

Uje Oil Bar 

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Pioneered by Croatian olive oil retailers, this trendy bistro is hailed for its seasonal Dalmatian fare. The interior is cozy yet refined, while its romantic alleys offer picturesque al fresco dining. You can also sample a variety of Uje's extra virgin olive oils, which may tempt you to pick up a bottle of liquid gold on your way out. Whether you're in the mood for cheese and charcuterie or hearty Dalmatian classics, look no further than Uje Oil Bar.

Luka Ice Cream & Cakes

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A local favorite for sweet treats, Luka serves fresh and exotic flavors of ice cream using all natural ingredients. Seeing as Croatia is famous for its lavender fields, Luka's beloved lavender ice cream is a decadent must-try. They also offer light and refreshing flavors to beat the heat, such as peach and cucumber sorbet.

SHOP

Uje 

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The same olive oil experts of Uje Oil Bar sell edible souvenirs at their gourmet gift shops. Aside from their quality oils, they also offer flavorful tapenades, local wines, fig products, chocolate, and a colorful assortment of kitchen accessories. Among its many traditional treats, Croatia is celebrated for Hvar's iconic lavender fields and Istria's rich truffles. Be sure to pick up some lavender and truffle based treats, like lavender sea salt or aromatic truffle oil.

In Galerija 

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With all of the kitschy trinkets that abound in the touristic center of Split, scouting out quality souvenirs can be a daunting task. That's why I was so thrilled when I stumbled upon the hole in the wall art gallery of In Galerija, nestled in the old town's maze of narrow streets. The cozy shop is overflowing with original pieces of art, all which make for unique and memorable keepsakes. My favorite memento is a small painting of Split's harbor, hand-painted by a local artist on a piece of wine barrel.

RELAX

Ovčice Beach 

Just a ten minute walk past the popular Bačvice beach, the calm shores of Ovčice are a stark contrast from the frat party atmosphere of its next door neighbor. Beach chairs and umbrellas are available to rent, and a nearby beach bar offers snacks and libations. If you're looking for a beach close to the city center but prefer to avoid Bačvice's crowds, murky waters and repetitive thrums of electronic music, peaceful Ovčice is a convenient alternative.

Marjan

For more picturesque spots to soak up the sun in Split, the pebble beaches beneath Marjan hill offer a quieter retreat. Some of the most popular beaches include Kasjuni, Kastelet and Bene, but keep in mind that these are much farther from the city center compared to Bačvice and Ovčice. Not all beaches have chairs or umbrellas available to rent, and beach bars may be far and few between. Consider packing a picnic, and bring plenty of water.

Because most of Croatia's beaches are notably rocky, you'll see many locals adorning water socks. Though they may not be the most fashionable, they'll save your feet from plenty of pain and discomfort. 

Have you ever visited Split?

If so, what other recommendations would you add?

Repatriation is Like a Bad Breakup

About a month ago, I was scrolling through my Instagram feed when a photo of a familiar street in Madrid popped up. Out of curiosity, I clicked on the blogger's profile, and I was immediately inundated with images of the stunning city I had just departed. This girl was frolicking through my favorite streets, sipping on tinto de verano at my favorite rooftop bars, and even brunching in my old neighborhood.

At first, I started tearing up. Then suddenly, envy began to pulse through my veins. "Who is this b*#@%?", I seethed with spite. "Why is SHE in Madrid? That's MY city. It should be ME that's there."

I had never even heard of this random girl's blog, and in reality I'm sure she is a great person. (And given that she was visiting all of my favorite spots in Madrid, we can assume she has good taste.) My childish, unwarranted rage made me feel like a jealous ex-girlfriend. And that's precisely when I realized that Spain broke up with me.

During my first month home, all I felt was heartbreak. My heart literally hurt. I couldn't sleep, I couldn't eat, and the throbbing aches in my chest stubbornly overpowered the jet lag I was so desperately clinging onto. I thought I had run out of tears when I cried all the way to Iceland, but apparently I was mistaken.

I had a lot of valid reasons for leaving Madrid. But now, blinded by the nostalgia of the past three years, I can't really seem to remember them. Something to do with sustainability, finances, and pursuing the next step in my career. Or whatever. I suppose since I left Madrid voluntarily, it was actually me who broke up with Spain. Either way, break ups suck. The fact that it was my decision to "end the relationship" doesn't make it hurt any less.

When you leave a place you love, you feel like you've left a chunk of your soul behind with you.

The process gets exponentially more complicated when you transition between cultures. When I first came to Madrid, I was worried about adapting to a new culture, functioning in an entirely different language, and essentially starting a new life from scratch. But after spending three years immersed in the language, culture, and quirks of another country, I've adopted countless Spanish customs as my own.

I've been stretched and challenged, I've expanded my world view, and ultimately, I've become a little bit more madrileña along the way. Coming home and being expected to feel like a star-spangled American again is like forcing a puzzle piece into a space that doesn't quite fit.

But this time around, it's more than just reverse culture shock. The rug has been ripped out from under me, and gone are the days of two-hour lunch breaks, three-day weekends, and 30€ Ryanair flights whisking me off to my next destination. Since coming home, I've been forced to come to terms with the bitter realities of job hunting, buying a car, saving for grad school, and planning for the future.

Everyone in the USA is probably rolling their eyes and thinking, "Welcome to adulthood, Courtney. It's about time." And it's not my intention to sound entitled or pretentious. But it's a lot to digest at once, especially combined with changes in friendships and the social sphere, as well as those nagging reminders of how leaving Spain absolutely shattered my heart.

I want to be wandering the streets of Malasaña, sipping on vino tinto in Plaza de las Comendadoras, and going on last-minute getaways with my fellow expat friends. I want to be sinking my teeth into a gooey pincho de tortilla at Bodega de la Ardosa. I want to savor vermouth before lunch, tapas crawl in La Latina, and sobremesa for hours afterwards. 

I miss the way Spanish words roll off my tongue and dance languidly in the warm air. I miss watching the street lamps ignite at dusk, making you feel as if the day’s adventures are only just beginning. I miss the feeling that anything is possible, and that seeing the world is a tangible reality. Madrid helped me become the best version of myself, and right now, I’m not sure how I'll be able to preserve that.

I might not sound very original, considering countless other ex-expats have already shared this quote, but it's a frighteningly accurate portrayal of how I'm feeling right now:

"You will never be completely at home again, because part of your heart will always be elsewhere. That is the price you pay for the richness of loving and knowing people in more than one place."- Miriam Adeney

It's been about seven weeks since I returned to the States, and I'm pleased to report that I'm doing a lot better than when I first moved back. Since this feels like a breakup, my natural instinct is to lie on the couch, eat guacamole and binge-watch Seinfeld. However, I've been keeping up a crazy schedule of job hunting, interviewing, reconnecting with friends and family, stepping up my exercise regime, and conquering my irrational fear of driving. (But in full disclosure, I still watch Seinfeld.)

And I'm thrilled to announce that I've just accepted a full-time job that feels like the perfect fit for me! (I promise to divulge more details soon!)

The Madrid-shaped hole in my heart has yet to heal, and I doubt anything will ever completely fill it. But I'll continue to try to embrace this new chapter, plan more adventures, and be present in Seattle. Closing the door on my life in Spain has shaken me to my core, but my gut is telling me that this is where I need to be right now.

Fellow ex-expats, what has helped you cope with repatriation?

A Bucket List-Worthy Adventure At Plitvice Lakes

Is this real life?

The lullaby of rushing cascades filled the air, while a kaleidoscope of emerald trees and turquoise waters delighted the senses. Through the roar of the waterfalls above me, I felt entirely at peace as rogue droplets splashed my face. Lost in reverie, the sublime beauty of this enchanted forest lead me to wonder if it were all just a dream.

Though it looks like a scene from a wooded fairytale, Croatia's resplendent Plitvice Lakes National Park is anything but a figment of the imagination. A most impressive feat of nature, Plitvice Lakes is the ultimate bucket list-worthy adventure.

Plitvice Paradise

Nestled in the mountainous Lika-Senj County separating continental Croatia from the southern coast, sixteen cascading lakes create an otherworldly oasis. The terraced lakes beget a series of majestic waterfalls, highlighted by pools of clear jewel-tone water. Narrow hiking trails, boardwalks and electric boats guide you through the lush maze of tranquil lakes and rushing cataracts.

The water gets its dazzling color from the sun reflecting upon the minerals and vegetation in the water. While it may seem tempting to jump in, you'll receive a hefty fine for diving into the waters of this protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is also home to a diverse array of flora and fauna, making it a mecca for biologists, botanists and nature enthusiasts. That said, it doesn't take a scientist to appreciate the complex beauty of this ecological wonder.

Practical Tips

Just a two-hour drive from Zagreb, Plitvice Lakes National Park makes for a convenient stop on the way to Split. If you don't have a rental car, the park is also accessible by bus. While it's possible to see the entirety of the park in several hours, shutterbugs should allow more time to linger. Hours of operation and ticket prices can be found here.

While the park offers a limited selection of overpriced meals, your best bet is to pack a lunch. Wear comfortable walking shoes, but adorning full hiking gear isn't necessary. Since the crowds are in full-force come summertime, consider spending the night in a nearby hotel and visiting the park in the morning before the swarms of tourists arrive.

And please, I beg of you, don't bring a selfie stick.

Is Plitvice Lakes already on your bucket list?

(If not, what more do I need to do to convince you?!)