Is San Sebastián My New Favorite City in Spain?

Aside from Madrid, Seville has always been my top contender for the title of "my favorite city in Spain". With colorful traditions, striking architecture and delectable tapas, I thought no other Spanish city could compete with the Andalusian capital. That is, until I ventured to Basque Country.

San Sebastián (known as Donostia by the Basques) completely blew me away with its spectacular scenery, friendly locals and phenomenal gastronomy. I had always heard of how magical Basque Country was, but I had to experience it for myself to truly believe it. Despite the long journey and seemingly unpredictable weather, I immediately knew I was hooked.

Once a getaway for royals and Europe's elite, this sparkling pearl on the Bay of Biscay has elegantly preserved its Belle Epoque charms and timeless majesty. From the narrow streets lined with pintxo bars in the Parte Vieja (Old Town) to the shimmering expanses of Playa de la Concha, San Sebastián's enchantments are nothing short of sublime.

I could devote the rest of this post to San Sebastián's incredible gastronomy, but I already did that. So I'll leave it at this: Spain's king of cuisine is highly exalted for a reason. San Sebastián's divine array of pintxos, which are tapas held together with toothpicks or skewers, make bar hopping in the Parte Vieja a mouthwatering feast for the senses.

If you're a foodie keen on sightseeing through your tastebuds, Basque Country is a destination that's not to be missed. Of all of the cities I've eaten my way through, San Sebastián takes home the gold medal for the most memorable dining experience.

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, one of the main streets for pintxos hopping


Colorful pintxos at Zeruko

If San Sebastián isn't on your bucket list, I recommend adding it to the top immediately. San Sebastián effortlessly enraptured me with its unassuming beauty and elegance, and I can't imagine fully experiencing Spain without getting to know Basque Country's most precious gem.

Since Seville still holds such a special place in my heart, I think it's fair to say that Seville and San Sebastián are tied for my favorite city in Spain. 

My San Sebastián Picks:
Most unique pintxos: Zeruko
Best bet for gluten-free pintxos: Taberna Gandarías
Most memorable experience: A food tour with San Sebastián Food
Favorite activity (besides eating): Strolling along Playa de la Concha
Best Views: Monte Igeldo and Monte Urgull


Have you ever experienced the magic of San Sebastián?
What's your favorite place in Spain?

Pre-departure Reflections: What's Next?

As I write this post, I really should be packing. But Kitty Purry is currently taking a siesta in my empty suitcase, and he looks too cute to be disturbed. I think I'll procrastinate a little longer.

A while back I was anxiously debating between staying in Madrid or coming back to resume life in the USA. Unsurprisingly, Spain won out. So on Monday, I'm off to Madrid for round three of teaching and tapas crawling. I couldn't be more excited.

But this time around, it feels bittersweet. I wish it weren't true, but I know in my heart that this will be my last year in Madrid. I can't quite put my finger on what specifically deters me from staying there longer (or forever). Maybe it's because being an auxiliar de conversación isn't financially sustainable, and I feel as if it's a dead end career-wise. Maybe I'm just ready for the next chapter. Leaving Madrid next July will shatter my heart to pieces, but I can't shake the feeling that this is the next step I have to take.

Whatever that next step is, however, is still a mystery. My third year in Madrid will be my make it or break it year for teaching. If I still love it after Year 3, I'll pursue a masters in teaching and go down the education path. If I decide that teaching really isn't for me, I'll try my hand at full-time writing and/or the social media field. I'm slowly getting the hang of this whole freelance thing, but I still have my long-term doubts. Ideally I'd like to teach and do some travel writing and photography on the side, so here's hoping that's possible!


No matter what I end up doing, I know where I'd eventually like to be. As much as I love the Pacific Northwest, this summer I realized that I've completely outgrown Seattle. It hurts my heart, but I just don't belong here anymore. So when it's time to return stateside, I need a big city on the west coast with good weather, decent public transportation, a booming foodie scene and gorgeous architecture. I want the closest thing to Europe that I can get in America. I'm fairly certain that San Francisco is it for me. (Finding a way to afford San Francisco, on the other hand, will be interesting...) 

So now that I've publicly declared my long-term plan, we'll see how it actually pans out. But in the meantime, there are plenty of good things on the horizon for the 2015-2016 school year. Travel wise, I've got a few exciting plans in the works that will knock out some top places on my bucket list. On the personal front, I'm working on a few projects that give me big-time heart sparkles - so stay tuned!

And of course... Madrid! After a summer apart, I can't wait to reunite with my stunning city. I can almost taste the tortilla. Yet as I emotionally prepare for round 3, I'm confronted by considerable nostalgia. I'm anxious about how different this year will be, and how it will compare to years past. This year will entail a brand new school, new students and coworkers, and presumably more new friends. I already miss my old students and friends who have permanently relocated stateside, but I'm trying to psych myself up for a brand new year. Change is good, right?

As messy as expat life may be, I hope you stay tuned to this year's travels and (mis)adventures. For real time updates, be sure to catch me on Instagram and Twitter!

5 Sights to Skip in Madrid

I have a problem with people who avoid every sight that's even remotely deemed "touristy".

I don't see any sense in going to Paris and avoiding the Eiffel Tower simply because it's the most popular tourist attraction. It may be packed with visitors, and the surrounding areas are remarkably overpriced, but it's also breathtaking. The same goes for other "mainstream" sights such as Barcelona's Sagrada Familia, Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, and Prague's Old Town Square. I'm not going to deny myself of beauty just because a lot of other people in this world think something is beautiful too.

As an expat going on three years, I feel the same way about downtown Madrid. "Touristlandia" between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace may be teeming with foreigners, but would I ever tell a first-time visitor, "Hey, don't go to Plaza Mayor or the Royal Palace, they're swarming with tourists!" Most certainly not.

Sure, I prefer scouting out places off the beaten path, surrounding myself with locals, and floundering my way through ordering food at restaurants where there's no English menu. My favorite travel experiences are always the ones where I seek adventures beyond the guidebook. But I'm also a camera-wielding, sandal-wearing, map-carrying foreigner, and I don't think I'm better than the rest of you.

For a well-balanced itinerary, I believe a trip should encompass a variety of must-sees and hidden gems.

So then, what do I avoid?

I steer clear of overt tourist traps (I'm looking at you, double decker bus tours and wax museums) and mundane activities that seem relentlessly overhyped. My foodie friends have also taught me to abhor overpriced, low quality restaurants that masquerade as authentic. I'm generally short on time and money when I travel, so I'm predictably turned off by the sights and experiences that appear to waste both.

Madrid is a magical city, and it should be experienced accordingly. Why settle for disappointing attractions when you could be experiencing Madrid's most spectacular enchantments? You deserve the best. If you're visiting on a time crunch, you'll especially want to prioritize accordingly. Here are what I believe to be five sights worth skipping in Madrid, along with their more authentic alternatives.


1. Plaza Mayor's restaurants

From the bottom of my heart, I want Spanish food to wow you. If there is one piece of wisdom I can impart from this entire blog, let it be this: do not, under any circumstance, dine at a restaurant in Plaza Mayor. These overpriced restaurants will not only leave you with a bad taste in your mouth (quite literally), but they are also gross misrepresentations of Spanish cuisine. Do not let these establishments give you a poor impression of Spain's phenomenal gastronomy. Unless you love frozen paella and tortilla that tastes like chalk, avoid these eateries at all costs.

Just say no to frozen paella.

Instead, try this:

Just a three minute walk away from Plaza Mayor lies Calle de la Cava Baja, Madrid's main foodie drag lined with vibrant taverns and tapas bars. It's hard to pick favorites, but my best bets for tapas in La Latina include Taberna la Concha, Taberna los Huevos de Lucio, Juana la Loca and Txirimiri. For more delectable eateries around the city, check out my list of favorite restaurants in Madrid.

2. The Teleférico

I consider this the Manneken Pis of Madrid's tourist attractions. While the first few minutes of the cable car ride boast pretty views of the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral, the rest of the ride is rather disappointing. The Teleférico drops you off in the middle of Casa de Campo, where there's nothing but a stark building filled with with arcade games, expensive souvenirs and over-processed food court snacks. The ride isn't a total bust, but it also isn't worth the hype.

Instead, try this:

Seek out more sublime views at one of Madrid's many rooftop bars, such as La Azotea at Círculo de Bellas Artes, Gymage, The Hat or Hotel Roommate Óscar. Not only do these rooftop terraces boast better views than the Teleférico, but you can also enjoy their striking panoramas while sipping refreshing cocktails. It's a win-win!

3. El Rastro

El Rastro, one of Europe's largest and most famous flea markets, takes place every Sunday morning in the neighborhood of La Latina. Vendors line Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores selling everything from leather bags to chipping Spanish antiques. If you sift through enough junk, you can probably find some buried treasures. But what I found was mostly overpriced pieces of plastic.

Fellow introverts be warned, the colossal and inundating crowds at this "bustling flea market" nearly gave me an anxiety attack. Inching my way down Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores was practically made impossible by the swarming hordes of window-shoppers. Considering I couldn't even come close to finding any eye-catching souvenirs, I didn't deem this episode worth the trouble.

Instead, try this:

You can find more gems and fewer crowds on Calle Velarde in hipster Malasaña, home to some of the city's best thrift shopping. Every Saturday during spring and autumn, Plaza de Dos de Mayo hosts a vibrant street market in the heart of Malasaña. The side streets of Malasaña and Chueca are also abounding with small shops and boutiques that sell locally made artisan goods.

4. A bullfight

Considering how much it has come under fire in recent years, bullfighting could be on its way out in Spain. Since Catalonia banned bullfighting in 2010, more political groups are supporting a nationwide ban on the controversial tradition.

Without getting too political, I will admit that I saw a bullfight back in 2010 on my first trip to Madrid. While I don't regret the experience, I'm certainly not willing to repeat it. I generally have a strong stomach, but I found most parts of the corrida de toros uncomfortably gory. There's nothing happy about a bullfight, and I don't believe it's a true reflection of Madrid's character. Simply put, your short time in the capital is better spent elsewhere.

Given the gore, I spent most of my time watching the matadors on the sideline...

Instead, try this:

Rather than watching death, seek out Madrid's authentic life. Spend your time doing more pleasant activities that actually reflect the heart and soul of Madrid. Explore the many diverse neighborhoods that make Madrid's personality so dynamic. Wander through the literary quarter of Huertas, enjoy a café con leche in one of the many cozy cafes in Malasaña, or bar hop and shoe shop in trendy Chueca. Drink a tinto de verano in a sunny plaza and admire how madrileños truly know how to live.

5. Kapital

Madrid's infamous seven-story nightclub is basically a European frat party without the free beer. Actually, the steep entrance fee usually includes one drink, so in reality one beer could technically cost you 22€. Frequented by inebriated tourists and study abroad students, Kapital has somehow achieved the status of a Madrid nightlife icon.

Have I been? Once. Did I have fun? For the most part. Would I go again? You couldn't pay me.

Let's be real, I probably would have loved this nightclub extraordinaire when I was 18. But now, there's only so much David Guetta, cheap vodka and large crowds that I'm willing to subject myself to, and I generally try to keep it to a minimum. So unless your idea of a good time is getting groped by a blacked out Italian and getting your phone stolen, Kapital is probably worth skipping.

I've officially lost count of how many times I've heard, "I got my iPhone stolen at Kapital last night!"

Instead, try this:

Head to Barrio Salamanca for a posh night out, or venture to the alternative bars and clubs in Malasaña. Gabana and TClub (Pachá) are my two favorite discotecas, while most of my favorite bars line Calle Pez and Corredera Baja de San Pablo in Malasaña. If you want to groove to Spanish music alongside locals, head to B12 in Nuevos Ministerios.


Madrid's diversity is part of what makes it so magical, so naturally, different attractions will appeal to different people. These are just my personal opinions; other visitors, expats and locals may very well disagree, and that's okay! 

Please note that I am not interested in turning this into a political discussion about bullfighting.

Have you ever been to Madrid?

What were your favorite sights, and what sights do you wish you had skipped?