Eating Gluten-Free in San Sebastián

The class, sophistication and unparalleled beauty of San Sebastián make it one of the most mesmerizing places to visit on the Iberian Peninsula. Most visitors are wise to come on an empty stomach, for this sparkling pearl on the Atlantic is also considered Spain's king of cuisine. 

While San Sebastián is home to the highest number of Michelin starred restaurants in the world, its famous pintxos are the beating heart of Basque gastronomy. A pintxo, named after the Spanish word for spike, is a tapa held together with a toothpick or skewer. Most of these savory appetizers are typically served atop a small piece of bread. 

The Basques have mastered the art of devouring pintxos through El Txikiteo, otherwise known as pintxos crawling. Hopping from bar to bar in search of the best small dishes to share with friends has become one of San Sebastián's most revered traditions. Every afternoon and evening, you can find hordes of hungry Basques bouncing between pintxos bars in San Sebastián's Parte Vieja, or Old Town.

As delectable as these bread-based finger foods may be, this tradition assuredly sounds like a Celiac's worst nightmare. Upon traveling to San Sebastián, the supposed gastronomic capital of Europe, all I heard was talk of the enticing pintxos bars abounding in the town's old quarter. Instead of getting excited about this acclaimed foodie heaven, I felt an impending sense of dread. How would I survive eating gluten-free in San Sebastián?

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, one of the main streets for pintxos hopping

Thankfully, avoiding gluten doesn't mean missing out on the city's best pintxos bars. Eating gluten-free in San Sebastián is no easy feat, but it's certainly not impossible.

The biggest challenge to overcome is the crowds, seeing as swaths of locals and tourists bombard the best pintxo bars during meal times. Getting a waiter's attention to place an order is fairly difficult in the first place, and holding their attention long enough to ask about potential allergens is even more challenging. Due to the sheer volume of people, waiters are typically in a rush and may not be the most friendly. But this is the culinary capital of Spain, so you do what you gotta do.

Never assume that something is gluten-free, even if it sounds like it naturally might be. Always tell your waiters "Soy Celiaca" if you have Celiac disease, and be sure to ask if certain dishes can be made gluten-free (sin gluten) or made especially without the bread (sin pan). However, because many pintxos are pre-made and laid out on the bar buffet-style, you won't be able to order every pintxo you want without the bread.

It's imperative to always state your allergy before you order. If you're nervous about the language barrier, print out a gluten-free restaurant card in Basque or in Spanish to show to your waiters.

The streets of the old town are typically packed during meal times

Sound daunting? It really isn't that bad. Once you get the hang of ordering pintxos sin gluten, you'll soon be devouring these mouthwatering dishes to your heart's content. Here's where to eat gluten-free pintxos in San Sebastián:

Taberna Gandarías

31 de Agosto Kalea, 23

What I Ordered:

Carrillera de buey  -  beef cheek
Croquetas de jamón  -  ham croquettes
Brocheta de pato  -  duck breast brochette
Tosta de queso de cabra con bacon  -  goat cheese and bacon toast
Solomillo  -  grilled beef sirloin toast
Jamón ibérico  -  Iberian ham

Savory, melt in your mouth beef cheeks

The Verdict:

Gandarías was the only restaurant I went to that offered an actual GF menu, which made it the easiest and safest place to eat gluten-free in San Sebastián. They even served some of their pintxos atop gluten-free bread! Every dish we ordered was positively delicious, but the beef cheeks and goat cheese and bacon toast were the best dishes of our day. Due to the relative ease of ordering and the plethora of gluten-free options, this was my favorite pintxos bar in town.

Gandarías' heavenly duck breast brochette

Zeruko

Calle Pescadería, 10

What I Ordered:

Bacalao a la hoguera  -  smoked cod with aioli, caramelized onions and liquid salad

"Bacalao a la hoguera" roughly translates to "cod on a bonfire"

The Verdict:

I've always had an aversion to fish, but when this smoking pintxo was offered to me, I simply couldn't pass it up. Served on its own metal grill, this "bonfire" cod was undoubtedly the best thing I ate all weekend. Although Zeruko's modern creations are a bit flashy, I would most certainly go back to San Sebastián just to eat this exquisite dish again.

Borda Berri

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 12

What I Ordered:

Magret de pato asado lentamente  -  roasted duck breast cooked slowly
Entrecot con piquillo y mostaza  -  fillet steak with whole grain mustard vinaigrette
Queso de cabra tostado con ciruela  -  grilled goat cheese with plums

Is it even possible to say no to goat cheese?
The Verdict:

By the time we hopped over to Borda Berri after the lunch-time rush, they had already run out of many of their famed dishes. What gluten-free options they did have left, however, were remarkably delicious. The busy waiters were curt, but nonetheless helpful. For the best of Borda Berri, make sure to get there early!

Atari Gastroteka

Calle Mayor, 18

What I Ordered:

Huevo a baja temperatura con habas y jamón  -  egg cooked at a low temperature
Solomillo con puré de zanahoria y salsa de vino  -  steak fillet with carrot puree in a red wine sauce
Patatas bravas  -  fried potatoes in a "spicy" tomato sauce
Crème brûlée

The egg cooked at a low temperature was one of the most savory bites I feasted upon all weekend

The Verdict:

The waiters at Atari were by far the most knowledgable about gluten-free dining. They were also, unsurprisingly, the most friendly. Unfortunately, this is one of San Sebastian's more pricy pintxos bars, but the security of knowing that my meal was entirely safe to eat made it worth every euro. Atari also offered us a fluffy loaf of gluten-free bread that tasted remarkably similar to a real baguette.

La Cuchara de San Telmo

31 de Agosto Kalea, 28

What I Ordered:

Lomo de ternera  -  veal loin
Foie gras
Vieira  -  scallop

Mouthwatering foie gras paired with a fruity glass of Rioja

The Verdict:

I was really bummed that La Cuchara de San Telmo's famed veal cheeks weren't gluten-free, but the alternatives did not disappoint. The scallop wasn't superb, but the veal loin and foie gras were phenomenal. This bar is where I realized that it would probably be impossible to be a gluten-free vegan in San Sebastián. (This bar was also a blatant reminder that I really, really hate crowds.)

La Cuchara de San Telmo is worth dining at if you can actually find a spot to eat

Txondorra

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 7

What I Ordered:

Pastel de pato con hongos  -  duck and mushroom pie
Brocheta de canguro  -  kangaroo skewer
Queso de cabra sobre jamón serrano  -  goat cheese over a slice of Serrano ham
Calamares a la plancha  -  grilled squid

Duck & mushroom pie, kangaroo skewer, grilled squid, and goat cheese with ham (clockwise)

The Verdict:

This pintxos bar was probably the least gluten-free friendly, seeing as the staff had a lot of trouble deciphering which pintxos contained gluten. (Or what gluten was, for that matter.) It all worked out in the end though, and I got to try a plethora of scrumptious dishes. (Who knew kangaroo could be so delicious?!) If you want to ask the waiters about gluten-free options, I recommend going before the restaurant gets very crowded.

Goiz Argi

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 4

What I Ordered:

Brocheta de gambas  -  prawns skewer

Prawns, where have you been all my life?

The Verdict:

Having hated seafood for most of my life, I had never actually tried a prawn before. Needless to say, this hole in the wall pintxos bar was the perfect place to try my first. I loved every bite! The chunky salsa atop the grilled prawns paired with tart Txakoli, a Basque sparkling white wine, sent my tastebuds to heaven.

Cheers, San Sebastián!

Please note:

For most of these dishes, I had to specifically ask for them "sin pan", or without bread. Remember to specify this, otherwise your naturally GF pintxo will come on top of a big pile of gluten!

Although I am usually sensitive to cross-contamination, I didn't get sick from any of these restaurants. That said, I did not look into how these bars prevent (or fail to prevent) cross-contamination, so eat at your own risk.

Do you have any food allergies? 

How do you survive them while traveling?

My 5 Biggest Travel Fails

Despite what we like to portray, travel isn't always glamorous. Blunders and mishaps are bound to happen to the best of us. Some misfortunes can make for great stories in the end, but in the moment they are often overwhelming, frustrating and embarrassing.

While things may not go awry every trip, I've certainly had my fair share of epic fails. Although most are slightly mortifying, I've decided to share my five most memorable disasters abroad.

Stranded in Africa

My trip to Marrakech was a tumultuous one. Needless to say, when it came time to leave Morocco, we were anxious to get out of there as soon as possible. Unfortunately, the universe had other plans for us... and by "universe", I actually mean an Icelandic volcano that erupted and halted all flights back to Europe.

After arriving to the airport and being greeted with the unfortunate news, we were initially shell-shocked. Filled with panic, fear and frustration, reality hit us: we were stranded in Africa.

We gathered a group of other stragglers and coordinated a road trip to Tangier, where we planned on hopping a ferry back to Spain. After hiring a driver, we began our nine hour road trip across the Moroccan countryside. After endless hours of barren fields and deserted villages, we finally reached Tangier and bought our ferry tickets with a few minutes to spare. As we were sprinting towards the port to catch our ferry, which we had been told was the last boat of the night, I began to have an asthma attack. Needless to say, we missed the boat.

Thankfully we had been misinformed, and there was still one last ferry that night. We caught the last boat and endured the rocky ride through the Strait of Gibraltar, arriving in the sketchy port town of Algeciras around 2:00 am. 

The rest of our night was spent laying on the pavement outside the Algeciras bus station, braving the cold and desperately trying to catch some z's before the first bus back to Cádiz. With prostitutes lingering just a block away and the panicked lullabies of car alarms going off every hour, we were relieved when the local cops befriended us and checked in on us regularly. 

We miraculously survived our night on the streets and made it back to Cádiz safely. That said, I don't think I'll be going back to Marrakech anytime soon.

Takeaway: If an Icelandic volcano threatens to erupt, maybe it's best to stay home.

Sedated in France

During my time studying abroad in Paris, I came down with strep throat one weekend. Although my hipster roommate didn't like me very much, she was kind enough to take me to the hospital on a Sunday afternoon. Finding a doctor's office that was actually open on a Sunday was a difficult feat, and the closest place - which happened to be an Emergency Room - was a considerable trek away. I was having trouble breathing because my throat was so swollen, so by the time we reached the hospital I was nearing a full-blown panic.

Upon entering the crowded waiting room, the nurse told us it'd be at least an hour or two before I could see the only doctor on duty. After waiting about 15 minutes, I suddenly found myself grasping for breath, trying to spout out the words "I can't breath" in broken French. Full-on internal pandemonium had set in, and I found myself in the middle of my first panic attack. Not knowing what was going on, my roommate ran to the nurse for help, and the nurse subsequently started banging on the door to the doctor's office.

The doctor came out into the waiting room, calmly examined my throat, and popped me a little blue pill. The rest of the visit was a haze. After regaining my ability to breath, I remember spouting eternal thanks to my roommate for "saving my life", waltzing into the doctor's office once it was my turn to see him, and feeling absolutely euphoric about how well I communicated my symptoms to him in French.

I was never asked to show my insurance card, but the ER visit (and what I assume to be a strong benzodiazepine) only cost me 50€. France's healthcare system knows what's up!  I frolicked to the pharmacy afterwards to pick up my delightfully cheap antibiotics, loving every minute of getting lost on the way.

Takeaway: The magic of Paris can also pertain to hospital visits. Just try not to get sick on a Sunday.

Scammed in Buenos Aires

Before traveling to Buenos Aires I had read all about the popular bill swapping scam, where taxi drivers supposedly take your change and give you back counterfeit bills. We had done our best to avoid this all week long, taking Radio Taxis that work for specific companies as opposed to independent drivers.

One afternoon, we ventured to the Museum of Latin American Art. After admiring the colorful exhibits, we were starving and eager to head to lunch. Our thoughts clouded by hunger, we hopped into the first cab we could find, despite the fact that it wasn't a Radio Taxi.

Alarm bells went off in my head when the taxi driver stopped at a seedy street corner, telling us that we'd arrived at our destination. This didn't look like what our guidebook had recommended, but I tried to keep an open mind.

"Do you have any larger bills? I need to get rid of some change", the cabbie said as my stepdad handed him some small bills. We caught on quick and insisted that we didn't, but the driver kept pressing us. We exited the cab in a huff after he reluctantly gave us our change, quickly realizing that we were definitely not in the right neighborhood. We rushed to a nearby café to figure out where we were and how to get to the correct destination.

I ordered a glass of wine to calm my nerves, and when it came time to pay, we handed our waitress the bills that our driver had just given us. Not before long, she came up to us and apologized in a hushed tone, "I'm sorry ma'am, but these bills are fake." 

We were mortified. As seasoned travelers, we should have known better. Thankfully we didn't lose that much money, but it still wounded my pride. I was livid at the driver, at Argentina, and at myself for letting it happen.

Takeaway: Only take official Radio Taxis in Buenos Aires, and never give cab drivers large bills. 

Mystery bites in Istanbul

Turkish food was quick to win over my heart and become one of my favorite international cuisines. That said, it was surprisingly difficult to find authentic meals near our hostel in Sultanahmet. So when some Turkish friends recommended Palatium, located above the ruins of the Great Palace of Constantinople, we enjoyed it so much that we went there twice. With mouthwatering food, friendly service and picture-perfect Turkish ambiance, what was not to love?

On our second venture to Palatium, my best friend and I ate our meal on the floor, sitting in a pair of picturesque woven bean bag chairs. They weren't the most comfortable, but I sucked it up for the sake of authenticity. When we returned to the hostel and met back up with her husband, we noticed that we were covered in bites.

It couldn't have been from the hostel, because we were all staying in the same room and my best friend's husband didn't have a single bite. We deduced that we had only been bitten where our skin had made contact with the bean bag chairs.

Although we originally thought the rash might be from fleas, it was more characteristic of bed bug bites. Covered in countless tiny welts, I flew home the next day nauseated, itching and emotionally scarred. This wasn't my first bout with bed bugs, but I seriously pray that it's my last.

Takeaway: As picturesque as bean bags in exotic restaurants may be, never sit in them.

Glutened in Amsterdam

Many of you already know that I have Celiac disease, which means that I can't indulge on normal glutenous goods such as beer and bread. (Tear.) So on my first day in Amsterdam when my friend told me that she'd found a place that sold gluten-free bagels, I was practically jumping for joy. I had just gotten in from my early morning flight, and I was starving.

I ordered my "gluten-free" bagel and could not get over how delicious it was. "Is this for real?!", I enthusiastically proclaimed. "It tastes too good to be true!"

It was.

The waitress accidentally served me a regular bagel, and I was reminded of this terrible blunder every hour on the hour for the next three days. Thanks to the frequent bouts of illness and the subsequent dehydration, I was out of commission for an entire week.

Takeaway: If it tastes too good to be true, it probably is.

As humbling as these experiences are, they certainly happen to the best of us. So now I'm curious,

What are your biggest travel fails and mishaps?

Please share or link to a post in the comments below!

7 Reasons I Adore Copenhagen

I fell hard for Denmark. Though I only spent four short days in Copenhagen, it was enough to make me completely infatuated with the Danish capital. While my time spent exploring the city was nothing short of magical, I've had trouble processing exactly how I feel about my trip.

Leaving Copenhagen tugged on my heart, as if I were forced to end a short-lived romance. It's a city that I could easily see myself living in (that is, if they had better weather all year long), and a place that I'm undoubtedly eager to revisit someday. In an attempt to put my love affair with the Danish capital into words, here are 7 reasons I adore Copenhagen:

1. The Colors

Danes are supposedly the happiest people in the world, and with stunning streetscapes and bright colors like these, I really can't blame them. The pops of color amongst its streets make exploring Copenhagen an enchanting experience. Though I was lucky enough to visit when the weather was superb, I can only imagine how the vibrant color schemes enhance a gloomy day.

2. The Markets

In the aftermath of the new Nordic food revolution, Copenhagen's market scene has become a defining element of Danish gastronomy. From the slick and shiny Torvehallerne Market to the wonderland of food trucks at Papirøen, the diversity of dishes to be found is unparalleled.

At Torvehallerne Market, a foodie mecca akin to Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel or San Francisco's Ferry Building Marketplace, I indulged on a variety of delicacies every day. From gluten-free paninis at Vita Boost generously stuffed with avocado, spinach and hummus, to truffle fries and prosciutto & pear salads at Un Mercato, the feast of available treats at Torvehallerne is never-ending.

At the former cellulose processing plant of Papirøen (also known as Paper Island), you can find an entire warehouse filled with a glorious array of food trucks. With a plethora of options to choose from, I settled on Belgian fries doubled fried in duck fat from the Copper and Wheat stand, as well as an organic, gluten-free egg wrap filled with braised pork, fresh vegetables and herbs, and a creamy yogurt tahini dressing from Brass. 

Papirøen: street food at its best

3. Boats, Boats, Boats!

Since the city is comprised of several different islands, it's no surprise that Copenhagen is a nautical paradise. Some of the city's most striking boats can be found along Nyhavn, Copenhagen's most colorful canal. The old wooden sailboats parked against a backdrop of vibrant buildings make for a decidedly picturesque scene.

Much like Amsterdam, Copenhagen boasts a series of sparkling canals. Some of Copenhagen's best views can be seen from these waterways, so I highly recommend taking one of the city's many boat tours, weather permitting. Getting out on the water is a Danish right of passage, and cruising the canals turned out to be one of my favorite activities while visiting.

4. The Architecture

At every corner I turned, the streetscapes of Copenhagen blew me away. I wanted to photograph it all! (And believe me, I tried.) The myriad of old buildings in the city center are positively darling. I can't count how many "dream homes" I stumbled upon while wandering through Copenhagen.

Because the Danes are at the front lines of urban design, their cutting-edge modern architecture is nothing less than awe-inspiring. But don't forget about the breathtaking castles and lavish palaces dotted across the city! 

5. Danish Efficiency

Not only is Denmark considered the happiest country in the world, but in true Scandinavian fashion, they're also one of the most efficient. Between food and renewable energy, Denmark is one of the world's leaders in sustainability.

With its state-funded education (that's right, universities are completely free!) and one full year of paid maternity leave, high taxes are a sacrifice that most Danes are willing to make. Not to mention, Denmark has one of the lowest crime rates in the world.

Basically, Denmark is good at everything it does except weather. But even that doesn't seem to get the Danes down!


6. Bikes Everywhere

About 50% of Copenhagen's city dwellers commute by bike. Tying back to efficiency, not only does this mean less traffic and reduced fossil fuel usage, but all of that exercise also means plenty of endorphins. No wonder the Danes are so happy! (That is, unless you get in a biker's way. There is nothing pleasant about getting yelled at by a speeding Dane on a bike, lesson learned!)

7. Hygge

Hygge is a Danish concept that roughly translates to coziness or snugness. The Danes define it as "creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying the good things in life with good people". For example, think of curling up by a fireplace and reading a good book, or sharing a good meal with close friends and family over the holidays.

Though Copenhagen is a fairly large city, so many parts of it exude this cozy, familiar charm. Given the warm and fuzzy feelings I had while in Copenhagen, I'm fairly certain that I was feeling uninhibited hygge.

Have you ever been to Copenhagen?

If so, what impressed you the most?